We returned to the Atarazanas market this morning for the same blended fruit drink (zumo) that we had enjoyed yesterday, then went next door to the same cafe as yesterday (are we creatures of habit?) for coffee and toast. The couple who run (own?) the place are a remarkably cheerful duo, and many of the customers are clearly regulars. They greeted us this morning as though we were old friends, and even remembered what we had eaten the day before.
Our main focus of the morning was the Alcazaba, an Alhambra-like fortification on the only hill in town, built in the 11th century by the Hammudids. If you want to get the feel of the Alhambra in Granada without the crowds, come to Málaga. It is the best-preserved Moorish citadel in Spain, and while not as elaborate as the Alhambra, it is quietly elegant and more accessible. A 1st-century Roman theater lies next to its entrance; the Moors used many of the theater's stones to build the Alcazaba. Double walls, defensive towers, and single-gate entries provide impressive protection. Paths wind up the hill through terraces and gardens and keyhole arches, through patios and past fountains, with buildings scattered around to create a formidable yet very graceful fortress/palace. After Ferdinand and Isabella "re"captured
Málaga in 1487, the fortress was maintained and put to use by the Spanish governments in their various iterations. Although Franco's forces were brutal to Málaga's citizens in the civil war, they fortunately did not do much damage to this historic structure. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit. The views over the city were superb.
For our main meal, we went to Okami, an excellent modern Japanese restaurant, for duck and sushi. The restaurant is just off the square housing the Teatro Cervantes, which dates from 1870 and is still in use today. It hosts the annual Málaga film festival, dedicated to contemporary Spanish films, among other music, dance, and theater events. Its warm yellow, colonnaded facade warms the small plaza in front.
We wandered around parts of town that we hadn't seen before. Saturday is a big day for professional soccer games, and we picked up glimpses as we walked past bars and cafes. Back at the hotel for our daily siesta, we continued to have soccer on the television (muted), and we ate dinner in a lovely family-run restaurant that, yes, had the current game on. With four back-to-back games, starting at midday and running until almost midnight, there was no shortage of soccer! It was funny to think the same games were being recorded by our little box back home in Torrey as we sat here watching them live.
