Although we knew that the Mercat Central was closed today, we let it draw us like a magnet, exploring different streets in a new neighborhood. It was a gorgeous autumn morning, with a clarity of light that was striking. As we walked, we passed an attractive modern building whose entrance was an open arch into a huge walled park. It turned out to be the botanical garden of the University of Valencia, first founded (although on a different site) in 1567 to study medicinal plants. It moved to its present site in 1802 on a huerta or planted field just outside the city walls. It fell into disuse in the Franco era, but was revived and restored toward the end of the 20th century. Occupying nearly 15 acres in what is now central Valencia (just outside the historic district), it is a glorious refuge in the middle of the city, and still in active use by the University. In addition, it is home to several dozen domestic cats, under the auspices of the local humane society. A safe place.
The Mercat was indeed closed, but the streets circling it had become a flea market, and on one side the city was hosting a "Market Plaza Party" that later in the day would have beer and paella available. Locals were lining up to buy tickets as we walked through.
Our next Sunday treat was a visit to the Valencia Museum of Modern Art, hosting two or three large exhibits. The one that got our attention was "Lost in the City," which pulled pieces from the permanent collection relating to urban life. Some great photography, some interesting painting and sculpture, and, in the furthest room, an oboist playing a very modern, urban-ish solo against a recorded accompaniment. No pastorale, this.
We had made reservations for the midafternoon meal at La Carme in the Carmen district, which we had spotted earlier and which was highly recommended. It is a small place, maybe a dozen dining tables, with an old-fashioned look. But the food, created and cooked by the owner and one assistant, is an interesting blend of French, Greek, and Mediterranean cuisine. I started with French onion soup followed by a very thin piece of marinated salmon, while Jerome had a moussaka followed by spare ribs in a honey sauce. Floating Island for dessert.
We thought we were done for the day, but on our way back to the hotel we passed the Monastery of Our Lady Carmen of Valencia, a 13th-century structure now restored and in use as an art/exhibit center. There was an extensive exhibit on the design of tapas paraphernalia -- not so much the food itself, as the serving pieces, chairs, and tables, as well as kitchen gadgets. In the original Refectory was an exhibit by Valencian artist Javier Garcerรก of gigantic modern paintings. Color and texture dominated, and I enjoyed many of them.
Back at the hotel, we are now in going-home mode, with a taxi reserved for 4:30 tomorrow morning to get us to our 6 a.m. flight to Paris, and our 10 a.m. flight from there to SLC. Homeward bound!
