We spent yesterday avoiding historic sites, with which we were already familiar, and exploring contemporary Cartagena instead. It was not entirely successful: We had set as destinations a couple of restaurants that looked interesting, but the neighborhoods we walked through were uninspiring (apartment houses strung along bare streets), and the restaurants turned out to be closed down. Still, we saw some lovely plazas and fountains, and got a sense of the center of the city if not the suburbs.
We headed back toward the port, and visited the contemporary art museum. As far as I can discover, this is the only art museum of any kind in Cartagena. Similarly, I only found one art gallery. The museum displays were local, and moderately interesting, but this is clearly not an art center (is there an opportunity here?).
The highlight of the day was the midday meal, because we returned to a very special restaurant that we had discovered in 2014 and that has since earned a Michelin star. We found that Magoga has done well for itself economically, and has kept up its quality in addition to expanding a tiny bit. Owners (and chefs) Maria and Adrian remembered us, which was fun (our visits in 2014 were in their first month of business), and we overindulged, but with great satisfaction. That required a siesta, of course, but also obviated the need for any supper, so last night we merely took to a local bar to sip sparkling water and watch a Barcelona-Manchester City soccer game (the former Barca coach is now at Man City, so it was extra fun).
Today was history day, and after breakfast at a local cafe, we returned to the remains of a wall built by the Phoenicians in the 3d century BCE, then climbed up to the castle on the highest hill in the city. The Moors built their castle there in the 12th century; Alfonso X of Castle took the city in 1245 and built his own castle on top of it. The structure itself is not that interesting, but the views over the city are amazing. From there we passed the 2d-century open-air Roman theater, the second largest found in Spain to date, and beautifully excavated.
We couldn't resist returning to Magoga today for a second meal, which started with complementary small tastings (three apiece, each served on its own little spoon): a sweet/savory walnut/sunflower kernels combination; jellied vermouth squares; vegetable puree dabs accompanied by sweet
potato chips. As first courses, I had a red tuna tartare wrapped in thin avocado slices and surrounded by a mustard seed sauce, while Jerome had oxtail ravioli in a wild mushroom cream sauce. As entrees, I had a "rice with garden vegetables" which turned out to be sort of a vegetarian paella of incredible flavor (I'm going to figure out as best I can how to make this). Jerome had venison loin in a cherry reduction sauce with sauteed celery root on the side. For a wine, we had a Portuguese Alborino, just different enough from the Spanish Alborinos to be really interesting. Dessert was a cross between French toast and bread pudding, a small square served with a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream and a coffee&cream sauce.
Then coffee. This meal was probably the culinary highlight of the entire trip.
There is so much more to say about Cartagena, but I would probably overdo. Similarly, I have many pictures that I love. I will make an album of them, and send the link.
We plan to visit the active archaeological dig
We plan to visit the active archaeological dig
of a Roman street
