Today was one of those magical days on a trip when every minute feels special. Actually, the day didn't start out that well, since intuition led me to log on to Delta to check our flights home. I told myself that I was being overly anxious, but, lo and behold, there was a new itinerary for us, leaving a day early, and from Valencia rather than Madrid. We had called last week, when our route plan changed, to investigate the possibility, but had not completed any transaction. So it was a bit alarming to see a notice of "change to your itinerary." A phone call after breakfast straightened things out, and we are back to our original flights and seats next Thursday.
We rested for a while, having both had rather uncomfortable nights of sleep (is this part of getting older and finding travel more difficult?). Jerome especially is still suffering from a lingering cough, and doesn't have a lot of energy. About 11, we headed out to take the tourist bus around town. But it is such a gorgeous day -- bright, sunny, clean, mid-70's, mild breeze -- that we ended up strolling and enjoying a Sunday morning along with many other Cartagenos. We passed a municipal market, closed today but on our list for tomorrow, and then as we approached the pedestrian streets of downtown, we heard a marching band. Sure enough, here they came, probably about 60 men in all, complete with 18th-century-style marching uniforms, playing stirring tunes. They were quite proper and formal, but we couldn't tell what it was all about. A big green wreath of leaves carried by the leaders reminded me of a funeral, but the whole event, while solemn, didn't seem that mournful. I saw the wreath, later, and all it said was, "Granaderos Californios." They seem to be a brotherhood descended from and celebrating the legacy of a division of the Royal Armada of the 18th century. Whew. Our waiter at lunch, a couple of hours later, told us that it was just a practice march for Semana Santa events next week. Anyway, it was a treat.
When we reached the waterfront, it was still such a lovely day that we decided to take the harbor tour, included in our Tarjetas de Cartagena that we purchased yesterday. The next tour left in 45 minutes, so we filled the time by going to the Marine Archaeology Museum. Here, in an exhibit divided into two parts, we learned about both the modern techniques for finding and preserving underwater treasures such as sunken boats, and the maritime history of Cartagena from the days of the Phoenicians in their *tiny* boats, through the Greeks, Romans, Moors, and Europeans who have used the natural port here.
The harbor ferry tour was a logical next activity, and so we can now say that we have been on a Mediterranean cruise. We explored the bay in a big counterclockwise circle, even going outside its entrance by a few kilometers for views of the coast to the west of here. It is a small ferry, and the ride was a lot of fun. Definitely a highlight.
Once back on shore, we strolled up the pedestrian district looking for a place to lunch, and we were lured into a small restaurant by the owner's insistence that he makes the best paella in the world. Perhaps too big a boast, but it was truly delicious, and I think my favorite, ever. A green salad before and a regional flan called pan de calatrava -- a sort of bread pudding with a burnt sugar sauce like flan has -- completed the meal, along with a bottle of Barbadillo wine. Another "one of the best" meals of the trip.
We rested in the late afternoon, then went out again about 8, as has become our pattern. The late Sunday afternoon paseo was in full swing, with families, friends, couples, and individuals strolling in the mild air. We had drinks on a small plaza, watching infants bounce on a big soft mattress surrounded by fencing, older children chasing around, boys playing soccer in a sunken area that kept the ball contained, couples strolling, moms chatting, fathers out with the kids. From there we kept strolling, back again to the Carmen pedestrian area, looking for something light for supper. The Tobiko sushi bar offered the perfect combination of Japanese soup and a few pieces of sushi. A tiny place, perhaps twelve feet wide and thirty feet deep, open to the pedestrian street.
All in all, it was a lovely day in a fascinating city. I could spend more time here.
