San Sebastian

23 September

Libby, Jerome, and I spent Monday on a day trip to San Sebastian, some 63 miles to the east of Bilbao and about 13 miles from the border with France. We rode the bus on a cloudy day that was a bit damp but still comfortable, via a winding freeway through coastal mountains, reminiscent of highways along the northern California coast.

San Sebastian is known locally as Donostia, its Basque name. The two names actually both mean "Saint Sebastian", dono being Basque for saint and stia being a shortened form of Sebastian. The small city is located on a beautiful bay with lovely beaches, which we could only partially appreciate on such a gray day. There was one solitary fellow on the beach, warmly dressed and drawing large pictures in the sand. SS is a famous tourism center, and one of its principal annual events is an international film festival, which as it happens is taking place this week (the reason we didn't actually stay in San Sebastian on this trip). We walked along the edge of the "red carpet" in front of the main venue but saw no celebrities at 1 in the afternoon.

We had walked out the main shopping avenue from the bus terminal to the beach, then through the shop- and restaurant-filled old town, and across the river to where the film festival is headquartered. Then we looped back, looking for the perfect restaurant for Jerome's birthday lunch. This we found at Bodegón Alejandro (www.bodegonalejandro.com), a Michelin-recommended "updated traditional Basque" dining establishment. So, the rest of this post is for you foodies. Do look at the web site, which has an English-language version available via the upper right corner.

Our "lunch" turned into a three-hour meal, since we chose to share the six-course "tasting menu":
     - Cold-marinated anchovy lasagne and vegetable rataouille with gazpacho cream
     - Creamy rice with baby cuttlefish and slices of Idiazábal cheese
     - Grilled hake on potatoes with virgin olive oil and citrus vinaigrette
     - Braised beef with hazelnuts
     - French toast (2" thick), caramelized and served with a creamy cream cheese sauce
     - Fresh strawberries with mascarpone sauce and biscuit crumbs

Wow. The flavor and texture contrasts were outstanding, and portions were modest so that we could enjoy every last bite. The photos, which I shall send along soon, may give some impression of the visual beauty of the servings, though I suspect that they do not do them justice.

We all dozed on the bus trip home, arriving later than we had expected due to the length of the meal! We hugged our goodbyes in the rain outside the Bilbao bus station, since Libby was going on to France the next day, and Jerome and I to Cantabria. Whence the next post, probably tomorrow!
Photos are at https://plus.google.com/u/0/113886039316216265781/posts/gJ2G6T6RrTD?pid=6061962788217126370&oid=113886039316216265781